Natural places are no different than human cities. The old exists next to the new. Invasive species integrate with or push out native species. The landscape you see around you is the same as seeing an old cathedral next to a skyscraper.
VanderMeer’s work, perhaps best described as ecological horror, explores how humans perceive and withstand environmental changes. Watching their surroundings undergo both subtle and dramatic transitions, no matter how neutral they are at their core, alters the emotional fibers of his characters.
Driving up the sanctuary’s driveway, I could see that the contractors had just finished covering the new wing of the chimpanzee building, which is hopefully just a few months away from completion. I reminded myself that I was an intern here just a couple years ago. Now everything looks a bit different. We have a new driveway, new barn, new structures, and new wing of enclosures. There are new residents (both bovine and chimp), new staff, and new protocols. It’s hard to believe that sanctuary itself hasn’t even existed for two decades yet because it hasn’t stopped evolving.
The land where the Chimp House sits was once an uninteresting pasture, but there were saloons and homesteads all along our stretch of highway. The nearby towns were base camps for coal miners and pioneers, and the surrounding forests have been sculpted by the flames of many wildfires and saws of many loggers. If you go back far enough, the Yakima and Snoqualmie people served as stewards of these lands for thousands of years. On a grander scale, massive herds of prehistoric bison and elk grazed the icy tundra that existed before humans arrived on the scene. Now, in a plot twist that would be just as confusing to the coal miners as it would to the prehistoric bison, ten retired chimpanzees call this place their sanctuary home.
What has not changed, in my lifetime at least, is the terroir of this place. For those of you who share my apathy for wine, terroir is a French word used to describe the suite of environmental and agricultural factors contributing to a wine’s quality. Importantly, though, terroir is not something that can be measured. It’s not just a composite of rainfall, or soil, or topography. It is an amalgamation of all these things into one noticeable character, and it can only be sufficiently experienced via taste.
One of the ecologists in VanderMeer’s novels uses the concept when describing a mysterious landscape, the feeling of which he cannot sufficiently explain using scientific language alone. It resonated with me when I first read it because it makes so much sense. I thought of all the places I’ve been lucky enough to live and work in, including this sanctuary, and recalled the unmistakable terroir of each. I wish the followers and donors, many of whom have never even visited this part of the country, could all come to this place and (without disturbing the residents) experience it for themselves. There’s nothing quite like walking around a dew-covered Young’s Hill in the morning and hearing a chorus of anticipatory pant-hoots rise up from the Chimp House, and words don’t do that experience any justice.
I know that having you all visit wouldn’t be possible, even in the absence of a global pandemic, so I hope you will all be content to view some photos that I’ve recently taken of this beautiful place as it continues to evolve into something else.
Tobin says
What a poignant essay, with beautiful photographs to accompany your words. I especially enjoy that look of wonder on the face of Willy B. A century ago, who would have thought that someone like him would be looking out at the scenery about him on an Autumn day in the foothills of the Cascades? As Gore Vidal inscribed as the last sentence of his final novel: “Change is the essence of life, and its hope.”
Anthony says
Thanks, Tobin! Hope, indeed.
Wendy Leyden says
Agree with above comment -poignant essay and beautiful photos! Thank you so much for sharing with us. How lucky you are to get to spend your days in such a lovely place with all those lovely creatures!
Anthony says
Thanks for supporting us, Wendy!
Margaret Bond says
Thank you for the beautiful photos. But, most of all, thanks to everyone at ChimpSanctNW who cares for the wondrous apes and bovines.
CarolR says
Thank you, Anthony for such a thoughtful and interesting post. Sometimes we fail to see the changes around us because they happen little by little, but yes, it’s great to see the area from your perspective. Wonderful photos too……beats a 9 to 5 job in a skyscraper somewhere! Exciting to see the new roof going on……does that mean no more window chase? I can imagine the dinner conversations around the construction workers tables…….”Who was the supervisor on site today, dear? Oh just Wiily B.” What a unique building job they have, being watched by chimpanzees.
Lynn Gold says
Thank you Anthony.Your inspiring words& awesome photos gave me a peace& a wonder i was missing today.
Anthony says
Thank you, Lynn!
Anthony says
Thanks, Carol! We can still play chase in the new playroom windows, but we have to stay out of the way while the crew is working. Honey B is the chief supervisor; they all know her name! Willy and Mave are less interested and would rather look at the neighboring chimps. 🙂
Marcie says
What a beautiful and thought provoking post. Thank you.
Anthony says
I’m glad you liked it, Marcie! Thanks for following along.
Jackie says
Thank you! Beautiful photos!
Anthony says
Thanks, Jackie!
Elaine Reiningeri AM says
Such a wonderful place for all beings, not just the human beings. Photos are awesome.
Rhonda says
Wow…just Wow! Such a great read! It took me on journey that I needed…so appreciated!
Vickie Scribner says
I am a lucky person to live in the midst of this great sanctuary!! When drive the highway there, I always have to peek and see if anyone is up on a structure!! I am so happy to be included in the life of the Chimps!! Or, so to speak.
Anthony says
Haha, you have a better window into the sanctuary than most. Feel free to wave to the cattle on your way past, too!
Kathleen says
With everything you need to accomplish in a single day you still find the time to pen this inspiring post. It reignited my love affair with the west. I always say Young’s Hill and it’s surroundings are a WA style Shangri-La. From the contented looks on the faces of Burrito, Annie, Foxie, Willy B and the office cat, deer, and horse, I’d say they agree with me.
Thanks for getting me out of my daily headspace Anthony. So excited to see the progress on the new building too.
Anthony says
The sanctuary definitely has regional flavor, so perhaps my love for the “lonesome crowded West” and my love for the sanctuary are linked to one another… I’m glad you enjoyed the post, Kathleen!
Judy says
Touching post that gives us the words to help fill in what a photo imparts but cannot fully show us – to the extent that we can “know” the spaces that the chimps share with you all. Thank you Anthony. Beautifully described and photographed. 🙂 Change is a constant, predictability is what engenders trust with the Chimpanzee people… great melding of those two things.
Anthony says
Thank you, Judy! I appreciate your insightful feedback, as always.
Louise Manson says
Each day throughout this pandemic, I have looked forward to seeing and reading of how the sanctuary has and is evolving. Your post today was lovely. I am originally from BC, now living in the “red” zone of Toronto, ON. Each day, seeing life continue and joy exist, makes it easier to hold onto what is dear. Memories of that lovely part of the globe (west coast) still call to me and seeing your pictures and the chimp people enjoying it brings back so many memories. I love hearing about the chimps but I must admit that just knowing where you are situated makes it all the better. Thanks for the pictures.
Anthony says
Thanks, Louise. I’m glad we can help you stay connected to the Northwest (and to the chimps)!
Chris says
Anthony! A post so beautifully written I read it twice. Also, I added a new word, terroir, to my vocabulary. Thanks.
Anthony says
Thanks for reading, Chris! And yes, it’s a great word. I was vaguely familiar with the term after hearing it used for wine, other alcoholic beverages, honey, etc. but didn’t think much of it until I read the Southern Reach trilogy. I don’t know why it popped into my head again this morning, but I rolled with it! 🙂
Raema says
I concur with all the previous comments! Thank you! Thank you! For a better look at Sanctuary life through your camera lens and a reminder of the ever changing world we live in. And for introducing me to a new author! I have made a notation in my phone to look for some works by VandenMeer. (Not my usual genre.)
As an oenophile living on the wet side of the “Hill”, I thought your use of the word ‘terroir, to be perfect!